Saturday, 17 September 2011

Kodona Code: The Cravat

A key aspect of any boy style or dandy outfit is the neckwear. I would say, honestly, the neckwear is as important to a dandy outfit as headwear is to a lolita outfit! It just completes the look.
The most common type is the formal Cravat shown abouve. This is historially a wide, patterned cloth worn tied at the neck and pinned with a tie pin.
Of course there are many types of neckwear to experiment with!
For a more casual look, there is always the Ascot tie, traditionally thinner than the cravat and worn under the collar, as shown here;

Another very popular style in dandy fashion is the Jabot;

Essentially, a long lace tie. Much more decorative and extravagant than the cravat or ascot.

Last but not least, there is the bow tie. Modern bow ties are usually pre-tied, and on straps to put easily around your neck. Bow ties can be as formal or as casual as any other type of tie, depending on the size, material and pattern of them.
A black or white silk tie of course being the most formal, all the way to large lacy bow ties as flamboyant as jabots, or even understated ascot-fabric bow ties that are more casual.

Here are some guides to various tie-knots. The first image is for a traditional bow-tie, the second is for varying types of cravat!

Friday, 16 September 2011

Kodona Code: Tail Coats

The tail coat is massively popular and iconic of most period fashions. No wonder, they are exceptionally elegant after all.

There are two main categories of historical tail coat, the Evening coat (bottom of image) and the Morning coat (top of image)
When someone thinks of a tailcoat, they usually think of the Evening Coat style, which has a square cut at the front and sides at waist length, and the long tails are knee length at the back.
This style is also known as the Swallow Tail type and the tails are usually rounded at the ends at the knee. Although longer or shorter tails came in and out of fashion over the twentieth century.

Morning coats taper from the front to the back in a sloped cut;
 but the tails usually look the same from the back as they do on the evening coat.

Some tail coats have square tails. These are usually shorter, military issue coats or specifically hunting coats.

The Highland Coatee, worn traditionally with a kilt in scotland is a good example of a very short-tailed coat.

With tail coats coming bacn in and out of fashion, usually as a womens fashion in modern times, you can find them in all sorts of styles and colours!
A gothic fashion edge to the tail coat was to make the tail ends sharply pointed, and this has stayed a popular style in modern tail coats.
My favourite modern tail coat designs come from Alice and the Pirates;
They do so many unusual things with the cut and details and always keep it interesting!
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